Abode of Janab-E-Sughra's Messengers -Karbala Nawabganj

                                                                           Image of Nawabganj Karbala

Dr.Mazhar Naqvi

Nawabganj Badi Karbala in Kanpur is perhaps the only shrine dedicated to Hazrat Imam Husain on the banks of holy Ganges with the unique distinction of being the abode of his daughter’s messengers in India. Although it is not that much popular as is the case with shrines such as ‘Husain Tekri’ (Ratlam), Najaf-E-hind Jogirampura (Bijnor), Dargah Hazrat Abbas (Lucknow and Baghra) but it surely enjoys considerable reverence among ‘Kanpurites’(denizens of Kanpur) who throng at Karbala in large number on every Thursday and Sunday to offer prayers at a newly commissioned ‘Zarih Mubarak’  that is exact replica of Imam Husain’s shrine at Karbala in Iraq.

Another feature that makes Badi Karbala Nawabganj unique in the whole world is its association with ‘Nishan-E-Paig’ procession. Taken out by thousands of Paigees’ as a part of Muharram ceremonies every year, Nishan-E-Paig   is basically an ‘Alam’ (Standard) and it symbolizes the messengers of Imam’s daughter Janab-E-Sughra (Qasid-E-Husain).She was left behind by Imam in Medina due to illness and not present at the battle of Karbala where Husain was martyred with three days hunger and thirst in along with his small band of companions on 10^th muharram in 680 AD.

Administration has to make elaborate security arrangements for the peaceful passing out the Nishan-E-Paig procession as over 1.5 lakhs Paikees with bells ringing around their waists and holdings swords in hands take part in it on Shab-E-Ashura(9^th night of Muharram and known in common language as ‘Qatl –Ki- Raat’. Nowhere else such a massive procession is taken out and people watch ‘Paikees’ with a sense of amazement and disbelief when they emerged out of Badi Karbala with their flower decked ‘Nishan’ under the leadership of their caliph Janab Shakeel to visit Imambaras and Imamchowks located in different parts of the city to recite Fatiha. They run around barefoot for days ahead of the Yaum-e-Ashura(10th day of Muharram), to commemorate the martyrdom of the Prophet’s grandson Husain. Dressed in green and black, these youths don’t take rest or lie down after their ‘Kamarbandi’ (tying of ropes around their waist with bells) and some of them desert their homes during till Ashura. 

 Paigees had also driven out British forces under the leadership of their ‘Khalifa’ Idris Pahalwan in 1857. After Shahar Qazi and Khalifa Idris decided to extend support to Nana Saheb ,Begum Hazrat Mahal and Azimullah Khan in their cause to drive British out of India on 1^st Muharram 1857 ,Paigees launched a whole hearted attack on British forces and echo of their ringing bells and slogan shouting ’Ya Ali’  sent shiver down the spines of their opponents.

Several legends surround the origin of ‘Paigi’ procession. Present Khalifa describes it as over 200 years old. The claim seems to be genuine as Kanpur was declared as a district in 1803 but British had started settling down here as early as 1773 by shifting their forces from Bilgram under the treaty with Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula. Though no documentary evidence is available, it is generally believed that the tradition was started by ‘Biharis’ after they arrived in Kanpur in search of employment and settled here.    

The Paigi derives its origin from the word ‘Paigham’ (Message) and claim that their ancestors had reached Karbala on the appeal of Hazrat Sughra but Imam had attained martyrdom before their arrival. Hence, they called themselves as Messengers of Hazrat Sughra. They assemble at Badi Karbala as it existed before the beginning of procession. 

The origin of shrine shrouds in mystery. It is believed that affluent nobles of Shamsabad (Farrukhabad District) had contributed to its initial construction. One prominent family of Shamsabad a farman(Royal Order) of Shah Jahan (1628–1658) granting their ancestors a number of villages. Moreover, some Naqvi Syed families of Mohalla Syedwada of town claim that  the graves in the Shahl(Royal) mosque in ‘Kot’ are of their ancestors, Syed Salem and others who accompanied  Shams Uddin Iltitmish(1212).Thus, settlement of the lovers of ‘Ahle-Bait’ in Shamsabad in early 13th century gives support to the legend that Nawabganj Karbala is one of the oldest in North India .

A noteworthy family to settle finally at Shamsabad in 1838 is the branch of the ‘Safavi’ Kings of Iran (1502–1736). They migrated to India after the overthrow of dynasty by Nadir Shah in 1737.It is members of this family who are believed to have granted financial aid in the early construction of a simple shrine. It is a popular belief that the spot where Karbala now stands was dense forest and once water sprouted from a ‘khoh’( small den) that appeared suddenly and soon people who witnessed the miracle associated with Imam Husain. ’Khoh’ still exists next to shrine covered with glass now and people mostly pray for the fulfillment of their wish around it. The managing committee has built a cemented square platform around ‘Khoh’ of three feet height and it is no longer possible to see or fetch water from ‘Khoh’-a practice that was very common three decades ago.  

About ten years ago, the simple shrine was demolished to pave way for the construction of a magnificent mausoleum crowned with a huge dome. The new structure has almost been completed with the donations given by people from all sections of society and now an impressive entrance through a huge gateway is being built opposite the steps leading to the shrine. Apart from the main shrine, Karbala also contains an old Baradari built of fine bricks and a well with ‘Alam’ (standard) of Hazrat Abbas fixed on it. Baradari is used to hold Majlises before the burial of dead bodies on the land adjacent to main shrines and used as graveyard since the inception of Karbala. Saeedul Hasan Naqvi alias Baba, perhaps the only trilingual journalist, Poet and Nazim-E-Mushaira of International fame, Syed Ahmad Mehndi ‘Jugnoo’ ,Ladley, founder of the most popular alam procession of 9^th Muharram and descendants of Awadh Nawabs are eminent  among those who lie buried at Karbala.

Since the construction of new and enhanced complex, Karbala has started playing host to some major programs introduced few years back  to commemorate the martyrs of Karbala. Of late, ‘Atthara(18) Bani Hashim’ has earned tremendous popularity. People from far flung places visit Karbala to witness the ‘Tabuts’(Coffins) taken out in memory of 18 martyrs of Bani Hashim clan. Devotees shed tears and cry hysterically upon seeing ‘Tabuts’.’Yaum-e-Rasul is another program that is being organized regularly for couple of years under the aegis of Maulana Kalbe Jawwad fans’ Association. Women also converge in large number to commemorate the death anniversary of Bibi Fatima every year while on the first Thursday of Islamic month Rajab, Anjumans (Religious outfits) take out alam processions in the memory of Karbala martyrs. 

Badi(Large) Karbala is not used much by devotees for burial of Tazias and ‘Zaris’ as majority of Muharram processions terminate at ‘Choti(Small) Karbala’ in Gwaltoli having more space and land adjacent to tomb of Prime Minister of Awadh  Nawab Mutmudaula Bahadur  Agha Meer during the regime of King Ghazi- Uddin-Haider. But it is known as Choti (small) Karbala in view of the existence of Badi Karbala much before the arrival of Agha Meer and discovery of holy water there.(The author is a heritage management expert and culture activist with deep interest in the history of Kanpur.References available on request))

Ganga Barrage near  Nawabganj Karbala