Muharram In Gwalior-During Scindia Rule & Now

Scindia's Tazia Gwalior 

Dr.Mazhar Naqvi

Among the princely states* of British India, Gwalior surely ranks as the front runner in patronizing Muharram ceremonies. As a sequel to the composite culture developed by Scindia rulers of the state, Muharram in Gwalior portrays a true picture of inter-faith understanding even today. If local residents are to be believed, Gwalior surpasses any other Indian city as far as the number of Tazia processions is concerned. Perhaps Gwalior is also the only city in India where Hindus outnumber their Muslim counterparts in keeping tazias of varying sizes every year during Muharram. The continuing love and active participation of Hindus and Non-Imamis is surely an outcome of the royal patronage extended to Muharram. Communal harmony has been the most unique feature of princely states. Whether large or small, no princely state ever witnessed communal disharmony. The religion of the ruler never made any difference to the subjects. Gwalior to followed a policy of religious tolerance and the ruler considered it to be his solemn duty to be part of Muharram rituals or Dussehara celebrations without any distinction.

In princely Gwalior,  life mostly revolved around the Maharaja. His public appearance was rare but his presence in Muharram and Dussehara processions was almost a certainty. His subjects loved him, revered him and used to await Muharram to have a glimpse of their Maharaja and his shining Tazia. The ruler also did not disappoint them and accompanied Muharram procession till its arrival at Karbala.

A senior citizen of Gwalior recalls in one of his articles “ Perched on a black and white horse, dressed in ceremonial richly worked-on angarkha, laden with assorted jewels and with his trademark Maratha pagri, Maharaja would ride down the city roads. His numerous ministers and important officials dressed likewise would be in tow on horses more or less of similar kind. Roads would be blocked for hours – more for ensuring a clear passage than for security – as the Maharaja would come out among his people. None would mind the inconvenience. Villagers in large numbers from the hinterland visiting for the occasion would camp overnight on the footpaths….. as the hour of the procession approached, villagers would change into their best in honor of the Maharaja. Generally, the fresh whites of their dresses would be topped by colorful turbans with flowing tails. Their women veiled their faces with their flamboyant saris. As soon as the Maharaja came into view, the crowd would burst into a huge roar and would shout in unison “Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia ki jai.”

He further writes “The crowds used to be thickest near Kampoo (a distortion of English camp) where the Imambara was located and was also the point of origin of the procession. The Imambara, now much more than a century old, was truly impressive. Of Islamic architectural design, its high ceiling and mammoth dimensions accommodated the several-storied tazia of the Scindias and it was assembled bit by bit. I still remember the shiny golden multi-storied tazia made on behalf of the Maharaja, leading numerous other smaller shiny and richly-colored ones of lesser dignitaries, Muslim organizations and individuals along with several tall colorful Alams (flags) in a seemingly unending stream. They would slowly wend their way down the streets followed by hundreds of mourners, a few with blood on their backs from the iron chains that they lashed themselves with uttering the anguished “Ya Husain, Ya Hussain”.

It would however be wrong to assume that It was Jiwaji Rao who began observance of Muharram at a grand scale in Gwalior. The state was founded in the early 18th century by Ranoji Scindia, as part of the Marattha confedracy. Under the leadership of Mahadji Scindia (1761–1794) Gwalior State became a leading power in northern India, and dominated the affairs of the confederacy. Mahadji Scindia too was an admirer of Imam Hussain. The Anglo-Marattha wars  turned Gwalior a princely state of the British Empire.

Even up to the merger of Gwalior state into Indian Union, Scindia family maintained pomp and pageantry of Muharram rituals. But as their fortunes declined and one of their queens began patronizing Saffron Brigade, royal patronage began diminishing. The participation of Scindia family became symbolic from an active one. In 1952, Imambara where Maharaja’s tazia was kept was given as venue for hosting    

National Badminton Championship, for the building had enough space on all sides to accommodate spectators. It was in this Imambara Nandu Natekar dethroned TN Seth, the then reigning national champion. Gwalior denizens therefore deserve praise for carrying out the legacy that was once the responsibility of state. Their enthusiastic participation in Muharram ceremonies despite a restrained approach of Scindia family towards Taziadari in view of the political affiliations of some of its family members only proves “Ghame Hussain Manaya Jata Raha Hai Ta Qayamat Tak Manaya Jata Rahega.Chahe Koi Rahe Ya Na Rahe”.( Mourning of Hussain will continue till the day of judgment irrespective of the fact who goes and who comes). 

P.S. The article has been posted on the request of Mr.Asad Naqvi-a regular viewer of this blog.*India had over 500 princely states at the time of Independence.