Shrine of Imam Rida and Its History

Imam Rida Shrine Complex- Mashhad(Iran)

Dr.Mazhar Naqvi

The Majestic shrine of Ali Ibn Musa al-Rida in Mashhad (Iran) has a history of construction, destruction and reconstruction behind it. Born in 765 AD in Medina and called by Persian speakers as Imam Reza was killed by Al Mamun, son and successor of Abbasid Caliph Harun al-Rashid in city of Tus in 818 AD, most historians unanimously agree. Al-Mamun murdered the Imam as he felt threatened due to love and affection showered on him by believers who never exhibited such gestures to the Caliph. After killing Imam, Mamun walked bare- footed and head  in front of the coffin and buried him next to the grave of Harun who had killed the father of Eighth Imam. 

Mashhad was known as Sanabad in the beginning of the third century Hijri. It was a small village located about 24 kms from Tus and contained the  summer palace of the then governor of Khorasan, Humaid bin Qahtabah. Abbasid caliph, Harun al-Rashid during his expedition against Rafeh ibn Laith, in 808 A.D. fell critically ill in Tus and died. He was buried in the hall of Humaid’s palace. When Imam Rida attained martyrdom at the hands of Al Mamun and laid to rest beside the grave of Harun, Sanabad became the pilgrimage center of Ahle-Bait’s lovers and small Sanabad soon emerged as a flourishing city called as Mashhad ar-Reza (tomb sanctuary of Imam Rida). 

By the turn of century, a dome was erected over the grave of Imam. Many buildings and shops sprang around the shrine when devotees began pouring in from various parts of the world for Ziyarat of Imam’s last resting place at Mashhad.

The peace and tranquility of the city was however disturbed in 993 AD when  Ghaznavi Sultan, Subuktgeen devastated Mashhad and prevented  devotees from visiting the shrine. But miraculously, his successor Mahmud Ghaznavi in1009 AD expanded and renovated the shrine. He fortified the city for its safety from invaders and decorated the shrine with fine marbles, quality wooden and stucco works. Mahmud also built the burial chamber of Imam Rida’s grave. This square-shaped building stands as the center of shrine. The shrine complex again suffered damage severely during the Ghuzz invasion in 1153.Then Sultan Sanjar (1097-1157 A.D) renovated the holy complex and commissioned new buildings within its precincts as a token of thanks giving following miraculous healing of his son in the shrine of Imam. Sharaf al-Din Abu Tahir b. Sa'd b. Ali Qummi is also reported to have carried out repair work at the shrine during Saljuqui period. Later, Chatrgan Zumurrud Malik, daughter of Mahmud Saljuqi, decorated the dadoes with precious hexangular, octagonal and star-shaped tiles in 1162.The following year in 1612, inscriptions on certain tiles reveal that Allaudin Khwarezm Shah carried out renovations .Two of the prayer niches, embellished with porcelain tiles,  plus those with Kufic inscriptions  adorning the walls to the upper side of the burial chamber carry the name of his Prime Minister  Ali bin Muhammad Muqri. The shrine received much attention during the period of  Khwarazm-Shahs  and decoration were made.Two embossed thulth (a large Naskh handwriting ) inscriptions in form of square tile work were fixed on both sides of the shrine entrance-by the side of Dar al-Huffaz porch in this era also.

In 1220 A.D., Khorasan was plundered by the invading hordes of Mongols and the survivors took shelter in Mashhad and settled around the holy shrine. Sultan Muhammad Khudabandeh Iljaitu, the Mongol ruler of Iran became an Imami and  ruled  from 1304-1316 A.D..He also renovated again the shrine at large scale with grandeur.
Ibn Batutah who visited Mashhad in 734/1333 mentions tile decorated shrine and its silver Zareeh.Miran Shah the son of Amir Timur  razed Tus to its foundation and massacred its inhabitants. As a sequel, Tus lost its popularity Mashhad gained prominence. But the most  glorious phase of Mashhad began during  the rule of Timur’s son Shahrukh Mirza (born 1377 A.D. ruled- 1405-1447).Shahrukh whose capital was Herat, regularly visited Mashhad to pay his respects at the holy shrine of Imam Rida. His wife Gauharshad Agha built  the famous and historical Gauharshad Mosque in 1418.It is considered to be one of the biggest and most beautiful mosques in the world. Mashhad reached its zenith during the reign of Safavid kings who ruled Iran from 1501-1786 A.D. Since Khorasan was a border province of the Safavid Empire, Mashhad witnessed repeated invasions and periods of occupation by the Uzbek Khans ,namely , Muhammad Khan, Abdullah Khan Shaibani, Muhammad Sultan and  Abdul - Momin Khan. These invasions continued up to 1586 A.D. Shah Abbas I finally drove out the Uzbeks from Khorasan.

Gauharshad Mosque

Sahn Atiq (the old courtyard) and the main building of the golden porch-, founded by Amir 'Ali Shir Nava'ii during the rule of Sultan Hussein Bayqara's from1470-1506, was also extended in the time of Shah Abbas 1. Shah Tahmasb Safavi repaired and gild the minaret near the dome and changed precious tiles covering the dome into gold-coated bricks in 1535 AD.When Uzbek invader Mumin Khan plundered Mashhad,Safavid ruler rebuilt the gold coated bricks in 1601. Allahverdikhan portico, porch in the north side of Dar al-Ziyafah(reception chamber) and Hatam Khani portico were also commissioned by great Safavid princes.Shah Abbas II also got  repaired and decorate  Sahn Atiq with tiles. When an earthquake damaged the dome of shrine, Shah Sulaiman also ordered its repair.He also  established several Madarsas (Islamic Seminaries). A skillful Isafahani mason called Ustad Shuja is recorded to have repaired and tiled the northern porch of Gauharshad Mosque, the entrance to holy shrine along with Musallah(place of prayer) located in Payeen Khiyaban (lower street).

Nadir Shah Afshar (1736-1747 A.D.) and the Qajar kings who ruled Iran from 1779-1923 also offered funds generously to  illuminated, beautify and expand courtyards (Sahn), porches (Riwaq) and other notable places in the shrine complex. During Nadir Shah Afshar's monarchy, the golden porch of Sahn Atiq and the minaret on its top were repaired and gilded. The minaret of north porch was erected and illuminated. A Sangab (a vessel or container made of single block of marble) in Ismail Tala'ee Saqqa Khanah (a public place for drinking water) was also built  in Sahn Atiq in the same period.

More improvements took place during Qajar period, including establishment of a new courtyard  and gilding of its porch. The construction began  in the era of Fath Ali Shah Qajar and concluded during the regime of  Nasir al-Din Shah's era. The porch and northern façade of Sahn Atiq were also repaired during Muhammad Shah's rule. In the time of Adud al- Mulk,Tawhid Khana was repaired in 1859. He decorated with mirrors  the fine paintings and tiles of the shrine in 1858. Some repairs in the old and the new courtyards also took place during Muzaffar al-Din Shah's monarchy.

In 1911 A.D., the Tsar Russian artillery shelled the holy shrine and martyred a large number of pilgrims and inhabitants. The shrine was repaired again after a while by Khorqasan Governor,Hussein Mirza Nayyir al-Dawla. The shrine saw some essential changes  in 1928, when Falakah-round open space with the radius of 180 meters from the top of the Dome was established, to be followed by the construction of  the Museum, the library and the Hall for ceremonies. On 13 July 1935, the armed forces of Reza Khan, the founder of Pahlavi dynasty, invaded the shrine and massacred innocent devotees in the Gauharshad Mosque. They faced the wrath of Pahalvi for  protesting against his anti-Islamic order, banning Hijab (modest dress) for women in Iran. During the peak days of Islamic revolution led by Ayatollah Khomeini , Muhammad Reza Shah's troops killed a large number of innocent people within the holy shrine on  November 21,1978.His act resulted in his ouster from Iran forever. After the victory of revolution,old Falakah was extended up to a radius of 620 meters. The new regime also  depicted the holy shrine  on the reverse of the Iranian 100 rials coin issued in 2004.( References available on request)