Hazrat Ali's Dargah 'Shah-E-Mardan and its History

Shah-e-Mardan,New Delhi

 Dargah Shah-E-Mardan- A Victim of Government Sponsored Land Grabbing In New Delhi

By Dr..Mazhar Naqvi

Dargah Shah-E- Mardan is not only one of the oldest shrines in New Delhi but also an example as to how government apathy can allow land grabbers to raise commercial and residential structures at a sprawling holy complex dedicated to Hazrat Ali and Bibi Fatima, the daughter of Prophet Muhammad. The shrine was in much news following protests from the devotees of Hazrat Ali under the leadership of Maulana Syed Kalbe Jawwad but nothing worthwhile has emanated to facilitate restoration of the lost glory of the shrine as yet.  

The shrine is known as Shah-E-Mardan as it is linked with Hazrat Ali, the Lion of Almighty Allah and hence, king of all males.  In his famous book on the monuments of Delhi, ‘Isarul Sanadeed’ Sir Syed Ahmad Khan has described Dargah as a shrine in front of the tomb of Mansoor Ali Khan ‘Safardarjang’. He has given credit for the establishment of Dargah to queen Qudsia Sahab-Al-Zamani also known as Nawab Bai, wife of King Mohammad Ali Shah’Rangeela’. Sir Syed has written in 1724, Begum acquired stone having a foot impression of Hazrat Ali. Out of her reverence to Imam, she got the stone fixed in a marble ‘hauz’(small Pond) with a marble floor around it. His claim based on several historical records placed the shrine as one of the oldest graveyards of Delhi after the smaller ones dating back to 12^th to 15^th centuries.

The description of Dargah given by Sir Syed makes it clear that the total area of existing shrine extended up to the tomb of Nawab Safdarjang. Even the tomb of Najaf Khan was also a part of it. But the shrine is totally isolated from the twin mausoleums and the land in between has been encroached upon by the government initially to tackle the problem of post- partition refugee influx. Later taking cue from the government, the land mafias pulled down not only the boundary of the sacred complex but also damaged the foot print of Hazrat Ali. The then, Union Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri who visited the shrine on persuasion of Dr.Anjum was aghast to see the damaged caused to shrine. He expressed shock and astonishment over the digging of marble graves dating back to medieval period and the disrespect exhibited to the shrine, its holy relic and tombs of Sufis. The minister immediately ordered for the repair of graves and reconstruction of boundary wall.   

 The efforts of Dr.Anjum to protect the shrine did not end here. He surveyed the complex with Colonel Basheer Husain Zaidi and prepared a list of monuments and graves of prominent people. He cited the works of famous historian Sir Jadu Nath Sarkar” Fall of the Mughal Empire” and W. Franklin’s ‘History of the Reign of Shah Alam’ and the list of Muhammadan and Hindu Monuments (VOL II, Calcutta, 1916) to bring out an authentic 115 page book with photographs with the help of ‘Anjuman Taraqqi Urdu’.

Another vivid description of the Dargah is also found in the 
work of Maulvi Zafar Hasan. He has refuted Sir Syed Ahmad claim about the construction of Shah-E-Mardan by Qudsia Begum.   The Maulvi writes “ Qudsia Begum had lost all her influence and was cast into prison and blinded along with her son, Ahmad Shah by  1753-54 AD)". He however mentions the graves of a number of "Khadimas" of the ‘Bibi Ka Rauza’ such as Sharfun Nisa Begum "alias Haji Begum, Bibi Jan, Wiayati Khanam, Sadrunnisa and Jahanara. Maulvi has given more emphasis on Bibi Ka rauza, describing it as a masonry building situated in a walled enclosure and roofed by a dome. It is said to contain a cup set upon a small masonry platform. The building was built in honour of Bibi Fatima and contains a cup dedicated to her. The ‘Rauza’ is located in appropriate proximity to the relic of her husband the ‘Qadam Sharif’(Foot Print). As a sign of the greatest respect to Bibi Fatima, purdah is strictly observed and no man is permitted to enter the Rauza and defile the cup by his sight". Dargah Kuli Khan has also mentioned the shrine in his memoirs.

The records related to shrine also mention various mosques(masjids), including the ones built by Qudsia Begum and Zeenat Begum, the Majlis Khanas, Bibi Fatima-ki-Chakki, Dargah Arif Ali Shah AND Mehr-ul-Nissa Begum-ki-Chaukunthi. About Qudsia Begum it is said that she had great love for ‘Ahle- Bait’ and she patronized Muharram rituals and shrines dedicated to Prophet’s descendants upon becoming the favorite queen of emperor Muhammad Shah. Although she started life as a dancing girl known as Udham Bai but after her conversion her only mission was to follow the teachings of Masoomeen. She helped poor generously to earn the title of ‘Raham Dil Begum ( Queen with a heart full of compassion). It is believed that she had the Dargah Shah-e-Mardan complex built to accommodate the sacred relics given to her by Shia religious dignitaries in the court of her husband. It was during her influential reign as the Empress and later during her the rule of her  son Ahmed Shah’ (AD 1748-54) that she doled out large sums to  muharram rituals lavish.

Historians and author may differ about the role of Qudsia Begum in construction or enlargement of Dargah but the contribution of Ishrat Ali Khan to its enhancement remains undisputed. In 1808 A.D., he built an Imambara (Majlis Khana) adjacent to the central shrine. Another noble Sadiq Ali Khan added a ‘Naqqarkhana ‘ at the shrine in 1821A.D. Topped by a black miniature onion dome, the ‘the two storied ‘Naqqarkhana’ was used by the royal musicians to announce the arrival of dignitaries and ambassadors at the shrine. The boundary of the Karbala was constructed by Ashraf Beg Khan. This is a place where tazias from entire city are brought here to be buried.

Juloos e Chehlum-20th safar Shah e Mardan,New Delhi

Though the area of Dargah has shrunk in size but its popularity has grown tremendously. Devotees throng in large number to attend religious congregations organized throughout the year to recall the martyrdom of martyrs of Karbala. They have also renovated the Imambara and decorated it tastefully. The beauty of Imambara today  not lies alone in its externally decorated stained glass windows above the wooden doorways and gold-painted fluted pillars with floral capitals and bases but in its interiors where dark red and green carpets cover every inch of the floor. The dark chamber of Majlis Khana  is made more attractive  by rays of light  through the stained glass, numerous soft bolsters on carpets while huge frames inset with sheets of Arabic calligraphy resting all along  the walls. The Majlis Khana hosts to the faithful who gather on the days of Ashura and Arba’ean (formal mourning observed forty days after Ashura) and sermons are preached to seated devotees from the center of the chamber where microphones have been installed alternating with the bolsters.

The Dargah much like its other counterparts in Delhi also consists of several individual structures built at different times and in its graveyard lies buried famous Mughal general Mahabat Khan who had captured emperor Jahangir. His body was brought from the Deccan to be buried here. Like Qudsia Begum he too was a true lover of Prophet’s family. The complex also contain  the grave of the mysterious Mah Khanam and the tomb of Justice Murtaza Fazal Ali. Other prominent graves are those of Ashraf Beg Khan,  Mirza Mohsin, , Saadat Khan, Qasim Ali Khan, , Nawab Syed Sultan Mirza,  Javed Khan, Maulvi Syed Ali, Nawab Mubarak Mahal Begum, Nawab Ibrahim Beg and many others nobles of stature.( References available on request).