Taj Mahal in Chota Imambara- Lucknow?
By Dr.Mazhar Naqvi
Chota or Husainabad Imambara in Lucknow has the unique distinction of containing replicas of Taj Mahal in its compound. The story behind its construction is somewhat similar to the erection of Bara Imambara by Nawab Asaf-Ud- Daula. The construction of Bara imambara was started by Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daula as a famine relief measure at the end of 18th century. His endeavor had earned him the proverb “Jisko na de Maula –Usko De Asaf-Ud-Daula”( The one who does not get from Maula, gets from Asaf-Ud-Daula) .
Unfortunately, a great famine struck in Awadh kingdom during the regime of King Muhammad Ali Shah in early 19th century. The famine crippled the lower strata of society and agricultural laborers financially. Recalling what his ancestor had done to provide food and shelter to famine stricken people, King Muhammad Ali Shah also commissioned the construction of Chota Imambara under a ‘Food for Work’ program to bring respite to the city populace. The monument that also aimed at serving as the mausoleum for the king and burial of his immediate family members finished in 1837.
As the finances of the kingdom were in dire stress, King Muhammad ali Shah could only match his endeavor with Bara Imambara in spirit only. Chota Imambara in all sense looks to be miniature of Bara Imambara. It lacks in grandeur but becomes a palace of light during Muharram due to profuse illumination. A number of British historians have described it as “Palace of Lights” in their chronicles because of its illumination by Husainabad Trust with the sighting of Muharram moon and illumination reaches its zenith on Shab-E-Ashur(9th Night of Muharram).
Chota Imambara has been designed on the Charbagh pattern of Mughal Kings with a stream running through the middle of the garden. The design pattern used for imambara is Indo-Islamic in nature but also has a gentle Persian influence. The interiors have some very good Arabic calligraphy and glassworks. The chandeliers used to decorate the interior of this building were brought from Belgium. The gilded white dome and several turrets and minarets give this sparkling white structure a magnificent look. The tombs of Muhammad Ali Shah and other members of his family are inside the Imambara compound itself.
This includes two replicas of the Taj Mahal, built as the tombs of Muhammad Ali Shah's daughter and her husband. The walls are decorated with Arabic calligraphy. The historians have so far not given any valid reason for the existence of Taj Mahal’s replicas in Imambara compound. The guides attribute the existence of Taj’s to the great affection the king had for his daughter and son-in.law. It may be true but only legends support the story not the historical evidence. The quality of material used for the construction of replicas does not convey the affection that the guides usually boast off.
It appears that King Muhammad ali Shah who had ascended the throne at the age of 65 was fond of following the actions of Mughal Emperor and his own predecessors. As he followed the method used by Asaf Ud Daula to provide relief to famine –hit people, the king imitated Emperor Aurangzeb in erecting a tomb for his beloved daughter. Aurangzeb was the first to imitate Taj Mahal in 1678 and named the new building as Bibi Ka Maqbara- the burial place of his first wife, Rabia-ud-Durrani. Emperor so carelessly imitated Taj that it is termed as the poor man’s Taj Mahal in Aurangabad (Maharashtra). It is made mostly of sandstone and has plastered walls with a marble dome. Below the tomb, lattice works are in marble. However, the lattice work and inlay decorations of flowers and creepers are beautiful.
In Chota Imambara too replicas of Taj Mahal has been erected the same way. They are devoid of inlay work and very small in size. They look toy like and leave a visitor wondering what propelled the king to construct the replicas of world’s most magnificent architectural wonder at a shrine dedicated primarily to the martyrs of Karbala. May be he was in a hurry due to his old age and deteriorating health. While he could at least complete replicas of Taj but time did not allow him to finish his dream project Satkhanda (seven floor building) just outside the Imambara. The king wanted to raise it on the pattern of Kutub Minar but laid to rest by his successors who did complete it, considering it as unlucky.
The King however showed exemplary generosity for the observance of Muharram by creating Husainabad trust. He doled out enough money that even today the maintenance of Imambara is probably the best in India. The Imambara also hosts the largest religious congregations and remain a hub of with religious activities throughout the year.
(Reference available on request)
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