Maula Ali Shrine in Hyderabad and Its History

Maula Ali Shrine- Shadow of a Glorious Past

 

  Qadam-E-Maula Ali in Hyderabad Shrine

  By Dr.Mazhar Naqvi

The hilltop shrine of Maula Ali in Hyderabad is an example of how the government apathy reduces magnificence and popularity of a holy place. No doubt, the shrine still draws devotees in good number every day but its present state can only be described as glimpse of a glorious past. The glory of the shrine can be gauged from its description given in ‘Tarikh-E-Asaf Jahi’  by  Munshi Qadir Khan Bidari. He writes “During the Urs the place (Dargah Maula Ali) was so crowded that wise and elderly people were of the opinion that no place in Delhi or indeed anywhere else in India had such a vast crowd on any occasion.” Another idea about the significance of the shrine can be formed from a letter written by the British Resident at the court of Hyderabad Nizam James Achilles Kirkpatrick to Calcutta in November 1800.He pens down “The annual Urs to Maula Ali is close at hand, and I propose going there and staying in my tents in a few days, for the benefit of fresh air and recreation”. Khwaja Ghulam Husain Khan in his work ‘Tareekh Gulzar-e-Asifiya’ has also dedicated a separate chapter on the shrine due to its importance and popularity among people of all faiths. He mentions  that sweetmeat and dry fruit sellers start putting up their stalls near the shrine from 10^th Rajab( 7^th Islamic month) onwards and a large number of people start proceeding to Koh-e-Sharif  to take part in the Urs of Maula Ali .

While the three historical descriptions amply demonstrate the grand nature of celebrations at the shrine and the royal patronage it enjoyed, the use of word Urs also makes Dargah unique. The term is used with the celebrations that are organized at the mausoleum of Sufis to mark their death anniversary or union with God. But Maula Ali shrine does not have any mortal remains and it contains the imprint of the right hand of Lion of Allah, Hazrat Ali. Legends attribute the erection of shrine by the third Qutub Shahi ruler Ibrahim Shah in 1578. It is said that one of his trusted eunuchs Yaqut saw Hazrat Ali sitting on a rock in his dream. The next day, he set off for the hill and found to his surprise the impression of Maula Ali's palm on a rock exactly at the spot he had seen in his dream. He had the imprints carved out of the rock and installed it safely. Upon coming to know about the miracle, Ibrahim Qutub Shah built a shrine at the place turned secure temporarily by Yaqut for the safety of holy relic. Further additions were made to Dargah by successive rulers who built a Mosque, Ashurkhana , Baradari (pavilion),Naqqar Khana (place for beating drums) and over 500 steps leading to the shrine from the base of hill top.Mahlaqa Bai , the great courtesan and first female Sahib-E-Dewan poetess also added to the grandeur of shrine by erecting impressive structures. It is widely believed that Yaqut had seen the dream on 17^th Rajab and its popularity grew within no time when a Qutub Shahi princes renounced the world and became a caretaker of the shrine.

After the fall of Qutub Shahi dynasty, the shrine witnessed a temporary decline but it regained its lost glory after the establishment of Asaf Jahi kingdom as its rulers not only patronized the shrine but also encouraged the participation of people in Urs in large number for a period of 10 days. A line of lamps was lit on either side of road all the way from Charminar to Koh- E- Ali during the Urs and entire population used to literally migrate from Hyderabad to Koh-E-Ali about 20 kms from Charminar.

The popularity reached at its zenith when people claimed to have seen Maula wandering on the hill top between 13^th Rajab (the date of Maula’s birth) and 17^th Rajab ,( The day of Yaqut’s dream).The Urs became a sort of national festival after a miracle involving a Mongol from Hazara area of Afghanistan who was persuaded to visit the shrine by the powerful Prime Minister of Hyderabad Mir Alam. Narrated by Mir alam himself to many a people the story of miracle reveals that the Mongol when invited to visit shrine expressed his inability on the pretext that he did not find any reason to be there as he has already been to the original shrine of Maula Ali at Najaf Ashraf. His host however persuaded him to mount the bullock cart and took him to hill top. As Mongol tried to step down from the cart, somehow his leg was trapped in between the support of the cart and sudden movement of the bullocks turned wheel of the cart that cracked his bone.

The minister immediately called for a surgeon but the Mongol refused any treatment and just shouted “ I will never allow any surgeon to touch my leg. Just as he broke by leg upon this hilltop, he will cure me as well. Praise be upon him. He preferred to remain unattended but kept crying whole night out of sheer pain .he however kept chanting Ya Maula ,Ya Maula .In the wee hours, he was overtaken by sleep  and then he saw Maula Ali in his dream who said” Get up and  walk” after laying his pious hand on the broken leg. The Mongol woke up from his slumber and felt no pain and also did not find any trace of fracture after bending his leg several times and walking on the hill top. He immediately offered thanks giving prayers and recited Fatiha at the shrine. Then, he visited the shrine each Thursday so long he remained at Hyderabad.  

The rulers, nobles and dignitaries donated generously for the upkeep of shrine and properties attached to Dargah are estimated to be worth tens of thousands of crores being spread in an area of over 250 acres in one of the costliest part of the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad. Most of its property has been encroached upon and there has been no effort on the part of the government to liberate the shrine’s property .As a result, the shrine does not receive any income from its properties. What it gets is contributions from pilgrims visiting the shrine. The average annual collection of contributions is insufficient for its upkeep. The State Wakf Board doles out a paltry Rs 60,000 annually for the whitewashing of the place during Hazrat Ali’s birth anniversary celebrations. The term Urs is no longer used. The replacement is as mysterious as its origin was. Logically it appears that after the merger of Hyderabad with India, the shrine lost its royal patronage and its continued neglect by successive government resulted in the decline of its popularity. The celebrations that were once funded from the royal treasury also suffered for want of lack of arrangements like availability of drinking water for the devotees. Gradually, the shrine no longer remained popular among people from all walks of life and only hardcore followers of Hazrat Ali remained its regular visitors.

Much was expected after the inclusion of shrine among the eleven heritage sites identified by HUDA INTACH. But nothing worthwhile seems to have been done so far. What is more tragic is the renovation of the tomb of Mahlaqa Bai with foreign aid? Had she been alive, she would not have let the renovation of her tomb happen before the restoration of the lost glory of her Maula’s shrine. But the government still fails to acknowledge the exalted position of Hazrat Ali and organizes program in the memory of one of his ordinary devotee. There is urgent need for launching a campaign for increasing the income of the shrine by liberating its properties from encroachers’.Then,the tourism department can be persuaded to reestablish the celebrations during Rajab on the pattern of Nizami era.